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Don't listen to the critics! 'GucciCore' is a mirror of public perception.
Logo tackiness is embraced in Demna's first Cruise collection for Gucci.
Before I found my deep love for fashion, I was a complete outsider with no knowledge of the industry or its deep heritage. But I knew the name Gucci. Sure, I was oblivious to the revolutionary impact Tom Ford made in the 90s, or the eccentric artistry of Alessandro Michele, but I was overtly aware of the brand itself. To someone who is unaware of the beauty stitched within the seams of the fashion world, Gucci could be defined by one word. Tacky.
I would see the instantly recognisable logo splashed everywhere, alongside garish green and red stripes, and it simply held no appeal. Yet, in Demna’s Cruise 2027 collection, instead of resisting this notion, he chose to embrace it, and it worked.
The looks themselves mirrored the audaciousness of the landmark they were shown in.
As with all shows, the impression of the collection begins with the atmosphere, and the location was precisely on the nose. A takeover of the bustling Times Square at 9pm on a Saturday night is hardly subtle. The billboards, the bright lights and the endless sounds of the city are the opposite of quiet luxury; some would even consider it rather tawdry. Yet, it was the perfect backdrop for a collection which could only be described as ostentatious. From a star-studded line up to the Gucci adverts splashed across the screens, it was loud, and it was bold. It was just right.
The looks themselves mirrored the audaciousness of the landmark they were shown in. Was it incredibly commercial? Without a doubt. Demna even acknowledged that fact himself. In fact, that word alone could define the entire collection. Though given that it was aptly entitled ‘GucciCore’, what else was to be expected?
credit: Gucci.
Beneath the spectacle, the collection ultimately was wearable. Inspired by the aim of creating a fundamental wardrobe for customers, the pieces were clearly designed with the intent of being sold, hence why showing in the commercial capital of the USA felt so fitting. Each look sent down the runway could translate to the real world: a pinstripe suit with a Gucci-fied rucksack; a mid-length overcoat with a feminine pussy bow carrying an oversized bag and yoga mat, and a black sweat-set with a bandeau top in the classic green and red. There were elements of undeniable glamour, with flamboyant fur coats and jewel-toned suits, but the overwhelming theme was everyday items with a touch of Gucci flair.
The line-up of stars that walked the runway only added to the extravagance of the night, with fan-favourites Anok Yai and Alex Consani stepping out in dazzling evening attire. They were joined by pop-culture princess Paris Hilton (whose look embodied that ‘in your face’ Gucci, complete with a double G belt) and Tom Brady in a sleek leather biker jacket. It was, however, one of the original supers, Cindy Crawford, who stole the show as she closed in a black feathered gown. There seems to be a theme emerging at Demna’s Gucci regarding 90s icons (who can forget Kate Moss closing his AW26 show in Milan earlier this year), and it’s certainly something to witness.
He’s a controversial figure, he’s ironic, and he’s rebellious.
Other designers come into houses and really make them their own, whilst others uphold the traditional codes and fall into sync. Demna seems to be playing into the general public’s perception of the brand. It may not be to the taste of the industry insiders, but it’s subversion that keeps this world alive, and Demna is nothing if not subversive.
Do we have a clear picture of his vision for Gucci? Perhaps not yet. Though that’s okay. Critics are of the opinion that if a designer hasn’t found their footing within a season or two, they’re done for, yet that’s never been the case. The Cruise 2027 collection had an array of ideas: references to the Tom Ford era; notes of his time at Balenciaga and (oddly enough) a slight feeling of Rick Owens in a small handful of looks.
The general tone online was that the collection was not good, with some especially harsh commentators downright slating it altogether. Fashion is subjective, and that’s the beauty of it; however, it tends to feel that herd mentality often comes into play. One person dislikes something, and suddenly the whole world follows suit. Having said that, it doesn’t seem as though Demna is here to be adored in the way that Matthieu Blazy or Jonathan Anderson are. He’s a controversial figure, he’s ironic, and he’s rebellious. The Cruise 2027 collection may not have been a complete picture of his Gucci, but the pieces are falling together, and one day, the rest of the industry will climb aboard.
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