emotion was stitched into the seams at Poet Lab ss27

The British clouds were threatening to open above Bethnal Green on Friday afternoon, but spirits could not be dampened by the crowds eagerly awaiting the Poet Lab SS27 show. It was only a week ago that founder and creative director Giuseppe Iaciofano was making his solo New York  Debut, and yet here he was putting yet another collection out onto the runway.  

“Fashion is all about East London,” Iaciofano explained, “here you have the real people, the creative people.” He’s not wrong; a stroll down Cambridge Heath Road and you are met with all types of (incredibly stylish) people, from all walks of life, offering a slightly grungy feel. Given the diversity within the casting, and the rawness of the clothes, the show couldn’t have been held in a more appropriate location. 

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photography by Marcus Hartelt

Entitled ‘Remember’, Iaciofano's muse was largely Albanian supermodel and activist Elton Ilirjani.  “He’s an inspiration for me; he brings fashion globally, throughout the world, with a smile; there is no sadness,” he explained after the show, and Iaciofano has that same quality. Influenced by  Albania’s (Ilirjani’s home country) brutalist landscapes, the designer continued his signature silhouettes, blending sharp tailoring and sculptural pieces with loose, flowing fabrics and expressive movement. 

Perhaps the most moving aspect of Iaciofano’s work is just how deeply personal it is, with his battles with both cancer and discrimination seeping into the garments. SS27, however, struck a lighter tone. “I want people to remember when they were a kid”, he explained, “you would play with pom poms”, referring to the closing look, which quite literally resembled an oversized pom pom.  

Aside from that very memorable dress (which also happened to be Iaciofano’s favourite look of the show), he opted to use sustainable materials, continuing to prove you can be creative without compromising the planet. “I use deadstock,” he divulged, “and went to my grandma’s house to  pick up some stuff.” That’s perhaps what makes ‘Remember’ such a fitting title; not only are the looks inspired by childhood memories, but they are quite literally created with relics of the past. 

It’s not often you leave a show feeling genuinely moved by what you see. Iaciofano has that effect on people. He doesn’t just send garments down a runway; you can feel the emotion stitched into the seams.