the masses want more of Anciela

Have you ever binge-watched a Netflix series in a singular day? There is something about it that  captures your attention, and you daren’t look away as you simply cannot anticipate what may  happen next? That was the feeling I had whilst watching Anciela's SS27 show; a vibrant explosion of culture which left the audience wanting more. 

The brand, founded by Jennifer Droguett Espinosa, may be based in London, but it’s beating heart is Latin American, with this particular collection drawing inspiration from her heritage and  wisdom passed between generations. 

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Photography by Marcus Hartelt

The opening of a fashion show is typically signalled with loud music blasting into the room; the  opening of Anciela was much softer, with the soft whistle of a conch trumpet. The, perhaps slightly unconventional, instrument was used in the ancient Americas to announce significant earthly events, pre-empting the performance which would later unfold. 

The first model; who donned a dramatic headdress that resembled the shape of the conch; was met on the runway by the second, with the two sharing an intimate mother-daughter moment (the age diversity within the casting was exquisitely done), kicking off the show in a heartwarming manner. The looks that followed featured largely muted tones with sharp pops of blue and  seductive silhouettes, before the mood transitioned into something darker and equally thought provoking. 

The next four women on the runway (each dressed in black), were accompanied by a large branch  (or perhaps ‘Roots’, the fitting title of the collection) which they dramatically placed at the centre  of the runway, before embarking on a performance which felt ritualistic. With this also came, from my perspective , the standout look of the collection; an intricately distressed jacket (created from  a leather alternative of press grape skins, stalks and seeds by Planet of the Grapes) with details  resembling an almost skeletal figure, paired with a micro-bubble skirt.  

On that note, each garment was crafted with sustainability in mind, combining vintage silks donated by Allegra Hicks with deadstock cotton and rescued wool suiting from Italian designer Orsola del Castro. Not only did Espinosa celebrate tradition, she embraced the future through  innovative, next-generation materials, such as AlgaFila; a fibre comprised with seaweed extract,  air and nanotechnology.  

Following on from the more somber tone, vivid colours emerged once more, with a variety of deep  blues, greens and yellows in the most versatile shapes. Still, the models continued to reel the  audience in with their demeanour, solidifying the event as less of a show and more of a theatrical  performance. It went beyond a procession of clothes, and entered into the realm of a fully-fledged  celebration of culture and ancestry. 

Oh, and as Espinosa came out to take her final bow, she was joined by a gorgeous Greyhound much to the delight of an applauding crowd. As I said, you never quite knew what was happening next.